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| History
of Indian Fashion |
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Through sharp analysis of
Sanskrit, Prakrit, and Hindi, as much as Arabic and Persian
sources, they have brought within reach a rich body of material.
The inherent difficulty in the matter of interpreting this
material and relating it to surviving archaeological and visual
evidence naturally leaves some matters obscure, and others
open to controversy. But a very substantial body of information
has been collected. |
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When the century dawned,
fashion was an exclusive enterprise,the pursuit of the wealth.
The lower tiers of the society settled for garments that were
more often than not entirely family hand-made-downs or stitched
at home.With time, however,networks of neighbourhood tailors
began to evolve into a retail history and the boom followed
by boutique selling. Today, garments are laser cut by computers
and sourced from all over the world and can easily be bought
sitting in the comfort of one's home via the internet
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A question that needs to
be disposed of rather early is whether, in the indigenous
Indian tradition, stitched garments were known or used at
all. From time to time statements have been made that the
art of sewing was unknown to the early Indians, and that it
was an import from outside. Serious and early students of
Indian costumes, like Forbes Watson, have stated, mostly on
the authority of other scholars, that the art of sewing came
to India only with the coming of the Muslims.' This statement
needs no longer to be taken seriously. |
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It is possible that the view
that "before the invasion of India by the Mohammedans,
the art of sewing was not practiced there" was formed
not on the basis of any historical or scholarly inquiry into
this matter but simply 'observation': observation of the dresses
of two different categories of people, those who were far
more rooted in the Indian soil and could thus be taken as
representing the long Indian tradition of wearing costumes
in a particular fashion, and those who could be linked with
outsiders' who came to India late, and visibly preferred different
kinds of dresses. |
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The 'timeless' Indian dress
of men, thus, consists of garments that use no stitching,
garments in other words that, as Forbes Watson says, "leave
the loom, ready for wear". The Dhoti, the Scarf or Uttariya,
and the Turban, which have never really disappeared from any
part of India, belong to this category, and their marked visibility
in India could have led one erroneously to conclude that the
early Indians did not use any sewn garments. |
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Likewise, for women, the
Dhoti or the Sari as the lower garments, combined with a Stanapatta
or breast-band for covering the breasts, forms a basic ensemble,
and once again consists of garments that do not have to be
stitched, the breast-garment being simply fastened in a knot
at the back. And the Dhoti or the Sari worn covering both
legs at the same time or, in the alternative, with one end
of it passed between the legs and tucked at the back in the
fashion that is still prevalent in large area of India. |
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But the preference of Indian
men and women for these garments, rational and understandable
in the context of the generally hot Indian climate, does not
afford any proof that for long periods of time the Indians
knew no other garments than those which "left the loom,
ready for wear". |
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As it is Indian fashion is
extremely alive and whatever the decade or the century,it
is here to stay. For not only it is comfortable, practical
and aesthetically beautiful but has changed with time with
the result that it has, in the past century,and will in the
coming one, remain contemporary Which is why the start of
the new century tempts us to dream and remember the past.
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